What to do in the PACA region in May?

In brief

• The month of Provençal traditions: the Fête des Gardians (Camargue cowboys’ festival) in Arles, the Bravade in Saint-Tropez and the pilgrimage to Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer.
• The Festival de Cannes brings the Croisette to life for a dozen days, with free screenings on the beach.
• One long weekend after another: 1 May, 8 May, Ascension Day and sometimes Whit Monday.
• A taste of summer on the coast: around 23 °C in the afternoon in Marseille and 21 °C in Nice.
• On the market stalls: strawberries, asparagus, then the first cherries.

The weather in May

May is often the most pleasant of the spring months. According to the Météo-France normals (1991-2020), temperatures in Marseille (Marignane station) range from 13.3 °C in the morning to 23.5 °C in the afternoon, with 37.7 mm of rain spread over about 4 days. In Nice, the average ranges from 14.5 °C to 21 °C, with 40.3 mm of rain. Terraces fill up and the evenings grow longer, but the sea is still cool for a long swim.

In the mountains, May is a month of transition. In Embrun (873 m), the normal goes from 7.7 °C in the morning to 20.4 °C in the afternoon. It rains more there than on the coast, 69.3 mm on average, often as afternoon thundery showers. The snow retreats towards the summits: mid-mountain trails open up, while high-altitude ones often remain snow-covered.

The mistral can still blow, especially in the Rhône valley. Météo-France describes it as a dry wind that “cleans the sky”: it brings bright but cool days, and can make the sea temperature drop sharply along the Bouches-du-Rhône coast.

May festivals and traditions

On 1 May, the Fête des Gardians in Arles. The Camargue horsemen gather in the morning on the boulevard des Lices, then parade on horseback through the town. The procession makes its way to the church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Major, where a mass in Provençal comes before the blessing of the gardians and their horses. In the afternoon, the Confrérie des gardians (the gardians’ brotherhood) puts on equestrian games in the arena, for a fee. The festival may be postponed if it rains.

From 16 to 18 May, the Bravade in Saint-Tropez. Since the 16th century, the town has honoured its patron saint, Saint Torpès. The bravadeurs, dressed as soldiers and sailors, escort the saint’s bust through the streets and fire volleys from blunderbusses. The tourist office warns that the blasts are loud: keep children and pets close to you. The festival is free.

On 24 and 25 May, the pilgrimage to Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. On the 24th, the reliquaries of the saints are lowered into the church and the statue of Saint Sara is carried to the sea, amid a crowd of pilgrims, many of them from the Gitano (Roma) community. On the 25th, it is the boat of Saints Mary Jacobe and Mary Salome that goes down to the sea, escorted by gardians on horseback. The village is packed: arrive early, as parking is very difficult.

On Whit Monday, the transhumance in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. Several thousand sheep, led by their shepherds, make a circuit of the town. Depending on the year, this Monday falls in May or June.

The month’s major events

The Festival de Cannes (Cannes Film Festival) is held in mid-May for a dozen days. Screenings in the Palais are reserved for accredited professionals, but the public is not forgotten. Every evening, the Cinéma de la plage, on the Plage Macé, shows classics and films from the selection for free, facing the sea. You can also watch the red-carpet arrivals from behind the barriers. During these days, Cannes is fully booked: reserve well in advance or stay further away.

The Expo Rose in Grasse, generally in May, celebrates the centifolia rose, known as the “rose de mai” (May rose), grown around Grasse since the 17th century. Thousands of roses decorate the old town and the Villa-Musée Fragonard.

The Nuit européenne des musées (European Night of Museums), organised by the Ministry of Culture on a Saturday in May, opens many museums free of charge in the evening. In Avignon, it’s a chance to see the Palais des Papes and the city’s museums in a different light: check the local programme.

Where to go in May

The Camargue. Between the Fête des Gardians and the pilgrimage, May is the Camargue’s big month. Bulls and horses are out in the marshes, pink flamingos in the lagoons.

The Îles d’Hyères. Before the summer crowds, Porquerolles and Port-Cros can be explored on foot or by bike in very soft light.

The Verdon. The Verdon Regional Nature Park regains its colours. Stop off in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, between cliffs and faience makers.

The hills behind Nice. Hilltop villages such as Saint-Paul-de-Vence can be visited without the July heat. Higher up, the valleys of the Mercantour National Park burst into flower as the snow melts.

Ideas for days out in May

With the family, make the most of a long weekend for a day in Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, outside the pilgrimage days: horse riding, the beach and birdwatching. When the sun is out, follow the coastline around Cassis or take a boat to the calanques: in May, the trails are still open without the summer regulations, which start on 1 June in the Bouches-du-Rhône. When it rains, the Night of Museums or a visit to the Palais des Papes will save the day.

What to eat in May

The Carpentras strawberry is in full season. Vaucluse Provence Attractivité lists strawberry festivals in April and May, notably in Carpentras and Velleron. Asparagus from the Durance plain is at its peak. At the end of the month come the first Ventoux cherries: the Burlat, an early variety, opens a season that runs until July.

Good to know

• Public holidays: 1 May, 8 May, Ascension Thursday (usually in May) and, in some years, Whit Monday. These long weekends fill the roads and accommodation along the coast.
• School holidays: in zone B, the spring holidays can run into the first days of May.
• Major festivals: in Cannes, Saint-Tropez and Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, the crowds are very large. Take the train or bus whenever possible.
• Mont Ventoux: the summit road reopens in spring, first on the south side, then on the north side, on dates set by the Vaucluse département depending on the snow.