What to do in the PACA region in February?
February is the month of the great winter festivals on the Côte d'Azur, with flower-decked floats, citrus fruit and mimosa. In the mountains, the school holidays open the liveliest stretch of the ski season.
By La rédaction de Sortir en PACA5 min read
In brief
- The month of the Côte d’Azur’s great festivals: the Carnaval de Nice and the Fête du Citron (Lemon Festival) in Menton
- Mimosa at its peak, celebrated in Mandelieu-la-Napoule
- On 2 February, Candlemas (the Chandeleur) and its navettes in Marseille
- Winter holidays: big crowds in the ski resorts
- Sunday oursinades (sea urchin feasts) at the harbour in Carry-le-Rouet
- Longer days and more generous sunshine
The weather in February
February is still a winter month, but the light is changing. According to the Météo-France 1991-2020 normals, Marseille (Marignane station) reaches an average of 12.8 °C in the afternoon and 3.7 °C at daybreak. Sunshine climbs to around 173 hours over the month, compared with 148 in January. In Nice, highs hover around 13.5 °C and lows around 6.1 °C.
In the mountains, winter holds firm. In Embrun (873 m), the normals give 9 °C in the afternoon and -2.2 °C at night. It’s often the best time for snow at altitude. In Provence, the mistral can still blow for several days in a row: blue skies guaranteed, but it feels icy. For the open-air parades, wear warm layers, as you’ll be standing still for a long time.
February festivals and traditions
Candlemas in Marseille. On 2 February, before dawn, a procession sets off from the Vieux-Port (Old Port) and climbs the rue Sainte to the Abbaye Saint-Victor. The pilgrims carry green candles. The Black Virgin, kept in the crypts all year round, is shown to the crowd in a green mantle. The archbishop then blesses the city and the candles, followed by the navettes from the nearby Four des Navettes bakery on the rue Sainte. The celebrations last nine days.
In Marseille, Candlemas is therefore celebrated less with crêpes than with navettes. These crisp orange-blossom biscuits are shaped like a small boat. Legend links them to the boat of the holy Marys that landed in Provence. It’s also the date on which Provençal tradition packs away the nativity scene.
The oursinades. On the Côte Bleue, Carry-le-Rouet devotes its February Sundays to the sea urchin. According to the regional tourism board, the festival is held on the harbour quays on the first three Sundays of the month. The tradition dates back to the 1950s. On the menu: sea urchins, shellfish, local produce and music.
The month’s major events
The Carnaval de Nice. For about two weeks in February, the place Masséna and the Promenade des Anglais host monumental floats, parades and flower battles. The first mentions of these festive days date back to 1294, and the first flower battle to 1876. According to the Nice tourist office, around 80% of the flowers on the floats (roses, carnations, gladioli, mimosa) are grown in the region. The parades are watched from grandstands or a standing area, with a ticket. Find out more on our page about the Carnaval de Nice festivities.
The Fête du Citron in Menton. Born in the 1930s, it generally runs from mid-February to the end of the month, sometimes into the first days of March. In the Jardins Biovès, giant sculptures made with more than a hundred tonnes of citrus fruit can be seen every day. The corsos des fruits d’or (golden fruit parades) take place on Sundays, and night-time parades liven up certain evenings. An orchid show and a craft market complete the programme. More details on our page dedicated to the Fête du Citron.
The Fête du Mimosa in Mandelieu-la-Napoule. Held since 1931, this Mimosa Festival lasts five days in February: a flower parade more than two kilometres long between the beaches, the harbour and the Château de La Napoule, handouts of mimosa and fireworks. The town also offers visits to forceries (where mimosa is forced into bloom) during the month. Read our page on the Fête du Mimosa.
Les Hivernales in Avignon. Avignon‘s choreographic development centre holds its contemporary dance festival every winter, during part of February, on dates that vary from one edition to the next. A programme for young audiences comes before it.
Where to go in February
In Menton and on the Riviera. Menton lives to the rhythm of citrus fruit. Between two parades, climb up to the old town or follow the seafront to the Italian border.
In Nice. Even without a ticket for the parades, Nice takes on carnival colours. A free Carnival village is set up on the promenade du Paillon.
In the Estérel and Tanneron hills. Mimosa blooms on the hills between Saint-Raphaël and Mandelieu. From Théoule-sur-Mer, the climb to the Rocher des Monges offers a fine view over the sea and the red rocks.
In the mountains. The resorts of the Southern Alps are in full swing. In the Alpes-Maritimes, Auron, Isola 2000 and Valberg are among the major ski areas. In the Hautes-Alpes and the Ubaye valley, the Forêt Blanche, Orcières Merlette, Montgenèvre and Pra Loup are other big names. For snowshoeing, here are five routes in the Hautes-Alpes.
Ideas for days out
With the family. Children love the flower battles in Nice and the parades in Menton. For the youngest, choose the daytime parades over the night-time ones, which finish later.
When the weather is bad. In Marseille, the Mucem and the replica of the Cosquer cave remain safe bets. In Menton, the orchid show can be visited indoors.
Nature. In the mountains, snowshoe outings let you discover the snow without a lift pass. On the coast, the coastal paths are pleasant in the warmest hours of the day. The first almond trees can blossom as early as the end of the month when the winter is mild.
What to eat in February
Candlemas navettes, sea urchins from the Côte Bleue and citrus fruit from Menton set the tone for the month. Black truffle is still in season: the Carpentras market is held on Friday mornings until the end of March.
Good to know
- No public holiday in February.
- Winter holidays: the Aix-Marseille and Nice education authorities are in zone B. Their holidays fall in February and sometimes spill over into early March. The resorts are then very busy: book accommodation and equipment hire early.
- Major festivals: Nice, Menton and Mandelieu draw big crowds. Grandstand or standing-area tickets are sold online, and the train saves you the trouble of parking.
- Winter equipment: until 31 March, winter tyres or chains (or snow socks) are compulsory in the mountain municipalities designated by the prefects.
- Dates: festival dates change every year. Check the programme with the tourist offices.
The whole region month by month
Sources : Météo-France (normales 1991-2020, via Infoclimat) - Office de tourisme de Marseille (Chandeleur, navettes) - Office de tourisme et des congrès de Nice Côte d'Azur (Carnaval) - Fête du Citron de Menton (site officiel) et Côte d'Azur France - Office de tourisme de Mandelieu-la-Napoule (dossier de presse Fête du Mimosa) - Comité régional du tourisme Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur (oursinades, stations des Alpes) - Préfectures des départements de montagne (équipements d'hiver)
Frequently asked questions
When is the Carnaval de Nice?
Every year in February, for about two weeks, on the place Masséna and the Promenade des Anglais. The exact dates change from one year to the next.
How much citrus fruit does the Fête du Citron in Menton need?
More than a hundred tonnes of citrus fruit go into the sculptures in the Jardins Biovès and the floats of the golden fruit parades.
What happens in Marseille on 2 February?
For Candlemas, a procession leaves the Vieux-Port before dawn for the Abbaye Saint-Victor, then the archbishop blesses the city, the green candles and the navettes from the Four des Navettes.
When are the winter school holidays in PACA?
The Aix-Marseille and Nice education authorities are in zone B: their winter holidays fall in February and sometimes spill over into early March.
