What to do in the PACA region in September?

In brief

• Still summer: nearly 26 °C in the afternoon in Marseille, and a sea that has kept its warmth.
• After the return to school, fewer people on the beaches and in the villages.
• Arles celebrates rice with its feria, generally on the second weekend of the month.
• The Journées européennes du patrimoine (European Heritage Days) take place on the third weekend of September.
• It’s grape harvest time, and the ideal season for hiking.
• The rain returns: watch out for Mediterranean episodes (torrential rain) at the end of the month.

The weather in September

September keeps a summery feel. According to the Météo-France 1991-2020 normals, it is 25.9 °C in the afternoon at Marignane, near Marseille, and 15.9 °C in the morning. Intense heat becomes rare: fewer than three days at 30 °C in the month. But the rain comes back. An average of 82 mm falls, over about five days, including more than two days with 10 mm or more: the rain often arrives in heavy downpours.

In Nice, the normals are 24.8 °C by day and 17.7 °C at night, with 81 mm of rain. September there has nearly four days of thunderstorms on average. The sea, meanwhile, has stored up the summer’s heat: according to Météo-France, it is at its warmest at the start of autumn. Swimming is still pleasant, especially in the first half of the month.

In the mountains, autumn is on its way. In Embrun, at 873 metres, afternoons reach 22.6 °C, but mornings drop to 9.6 °C. The days are clear and bright: it is often the best time to walk at altitude, before the first snows.

September festivals and traditions

In Arles, the Féria du riz (Rice Feria) marks the aficionados’ return, generally on the second weekend of September. The Roman arena hosts courses camarguaises (Camargue bull games) and bullfights, including the goyesque, the highlight of the feria. In the streets, there are abrivados, bandidos and bodegas. Camargue rice is also celebrated with the Prémices du riz, in September, with a parade and the blessing of the new harvest. Dates vary: check with the Arles tourist office.

September is also the month of the grape harvest. In the South, it often starts as early as late August and continues into September, depending on the grape varieties and areas. The estates come to life and some offer tours or tastings. It’s the time to discover the coastal appellations, such as Bandol or AOC Cassis.

A few fêtes votives (patron-saint festivals) still stretch the summer out, such as those of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, at the end of the month.

September’s major events

The European Heritage Days take place every year on the third weekend of September. Monuments, town halls, workshops and sites that are usually closed open their doors, often free of charge. In Marseille, Aix, Nice or the villages, the programme is published a few weeks beforehand. Some visits require registration and fill up fast: book as soon as the programme comes out. Think too of lesser-known sites, often quieter than the big monuments.

At the end of September, Saint-Tropez hosts Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez, organised by the Société nautique de Saint-Tropez. For about a week, straddling late September and early October, classic and modern yachts race in the gulf. The spectacle can also be watched from the harbour and the beaches.

In Marseille, the Foire internationale (international fair) sets up at the Parc Chanot from late September to early October. In Arles, the Rencontres de la photographie enter their last weeks of exhibitions.

Where to go in September

The coast regains its calm. In Cassis, the harbour and the nearby calanques can be explored without the August crowds. The Calanques National Park remains subject to the summer access rules until the end of the month.

On the Côte Bleue, the customs officers’ path from Niolon to La Redonne alternates between coves and viewpoints. It is more enjoyable once the heat has eased.

In the Luberon, Roussillon and the Colorado provençal in Rustrel display their ochre cliffs. September’s soft light brings out their colours.

In the Alpilles, Les Baux-de-Provence can be visited more peacefully than in high summer. Further east, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie opens the road to the Verdon, quieter after the return to school.

In the mountains, the Mercantour, the Ubaye and the Hautes-Alpes offer their finest hiking days. The high-altitude lakes and the great routes can be enjoyed without the summer crowds. The days are getting shorter, though: set off early, and bring a warm layer for the chilly mornings.

Ideas for days out

When the sun is out: a last day at the beach, a kayak outing or an early-morning start on a hike. In the mountains, the trails are generally still clear of snow.

With the family: the Heritage Days offer tours and workshops suited to children, often free.

When the weather is bad: a museum such as the Mucem in Marseille, a wine cellar or an exhibition in Arles.

For food lovers: grapes, figs and the first Camargue rice. September markets still mix summer vegetables with the first autumn produce.

Good to know

Back to school and crowds. The summer holidays end at the very start of the month. September has no public holiday. Weekends are still lively, but during the week beaches and villages empty out. Some seaside businesses close or cut their opening hours after the season.

Access to forest areas. The summer regulations are not over. In the Bouches-du-Rhône, they run until 30 September, with a map published around 6 pm for the following day; in red, access is forbidden. In the Var, the daily map is kept up until mid-September. The mistral can push the risk back up from one day to the next. In the calanques, booking for Sugiton and Les Pierres Tombées may still apply on certain weekends in early September: check the park’s calendar.

Mediterranean episodes. According to Météo-France, these episodes of very intense rainfall occur mainly in autumn, when the sea is at its warmest. They can exceed 200 mm of rain in a single day. Follow Météo-France’s weather warning map. Under an orange or red rain-flood warning, never cross a flooded road and stay away from riverbanks.

Late heat. The seasonal heatwave watch runs until 15 September and can be extended in the event of late heat.