In brief
- Challenging coastal path : 7 km between Niolon and La Redonne
- Elevation gain : +251 m / -252 m, average duration : 2h45
- Train access recommended (TER from Côte Bleue)
- Spectacular landscapes : calanques, viaducts, secluded inlets
- Difficulty : for experienced hikers, narrow and steep trail at times
- Point of caution : avoid with children or those prone to vertigo
From Niolon to La Redonne via the customs officers’ path
A spectacular crossing on the heights of Côte Bleue
Between turquoise sea and steep reliefs, the customs officers’ path between Niolon and La Redonne charts a route that is both captivating and demanding. This iconic stretch of Côte Bleue unfolds its 7 kilometers along the cliffside, punctuated by wild calanques, monumental railway arches, and technical passages. A one-way escape (unless retracing steps) for coastal hiking enthusiasts, far from the Marseille crowd.
A departure between station and discreet inlets
The course starts at Niolon, a small port backed by the rock, accessible by a TER from Marseille. The path begins to the left of the train station and then delves into a discreet valley. The ascent towards the Jonquier viaduct soon gives way to a breathtaking panorama of the jagged coast. Here, the scents of garrigue mingle with the salty smell of the shore. The ground alternates between red earth and slippery limestone slabs.
Unfamiliar calanques and impressive arches
After the Calanque du Riflard, the path narrows and contours around an imposing rocky block, le Moulon, which proudly juts out towards the sea. Further on, the path becomes more airy: crossing above the Calanque de l’Everine, traversing a small bridge over the railway, then progressing along the coast. Some caves emerge halfway up, before reaching the port of Grand Méjean, a peaceful enclave nestled between two capes.
A mineral and steep final stretch to La Redonne
The section between Grand Méjean and La Redonne holds its most demanding stretches. A road gives way to a staircase cut into the rock, leading to the port of Figuières. The path becomes narrower, sometimes slipping along the edge of private properties. In rough seas, certain sections over pebbles may become impassable. The Calanque des Anthénors marks the last maritime stop before the final ascent to La Redonne-Ensuès.
Practical information
- Distance : 7.03 km
- Average duration : 2h45
- Positive elevation gain : +251 m / Negative elevation gain : -252 m
- Difficulty : rated difficult (narrow trail, exposed passages)
- Return : not looped, possibility to return by train (10 min)
- Departure : Niolon station / Arrival : La Redonne-Ensuès station
- Recommended IGN map : 3144OT, 3145ET
Precautions and recommendations
This path is aimed at hikers accustomed to technical coastal routes. Sections close to the void require constant vigilance. Hiking shoes are essential. In case of high swells, certain low passages may become inaccessible. Children or those uncomfortable with heights should abstain.
Access to the railway tracks is strictly prohibited. Always stay on the marked path of blue dots (even if they may be discreet).
How to get there
🚆 By train : the TER line from Côte Bleue connects Marseille to Niolon and La Redonne (about €4 – one train every 2 hours).
🚗 By car : access to Niolon is restricted in summer. A parking area is located before the village entrance barrier. In high season, plan to arrive early to avoid chaotic parking on the shoulders.
Nearby
- Fort de Niolon Haut : former military battery overlooking the harbor. Not open to the public, but visible from a secondary path (1 km, +150 m).
- Discreet calanques : some inlets accessible below the path allow for peaceful swimming — caution when descending.
This stretch between Niolon and La Redonne, sometimes demanding but always enchanting, offers a complete immersion in a raw and authentic landscape. An invitation to walk along the sea with eyes fixed on the horizon.
