What to do in the PACA region in August?

In brief

• A hot, dry month, with a few thunderstorms, especially in the mountains.
• 15 August, a public holiday, is also the day of the lavender festival in Sault.
• In early August, Grasse celebrates jasmine and Digne-les-Bains parades for its lavender corso.
• The Nuits des étoiles (Nights of the Stars) and the Perseids invite you to watch the sky.
• The mountains offer cool nights: the Mercantour, the Hautes-Alpes and high-altitude lakes.

The weather in August

August carries on July’s heat. According to the Météo-France 1991-2020 normals, Marignane, near Marseille, records 30.5 °C in the afternoon and 19.4 °C in the early morning. The station averages 18 days at 30 °C or more. 25.8 mm of rain falls over fewer than three days: more than in July, a sign of the first late-summer storms.

In Nice, August is the hottest month: 27.9 °C by day and 21.1 °C at night on average. Nights stay warm by the sea. The Nice station also records three to four days of thunderstorms in the month.

The mountains remain the best refuge. In Embrun, at 873 metres, afternoons climb to 27.7 °C, but nights drop back to 13.3 °C. 52 mm of rain falls there over about seven days. Higher up, the air is even cooler: bring a jacket for the evenings.

August festivals and traditions

15 August, the feast of the Assumption, is a public holiday. It is the big day of the lavender festival in Sault, in the Vaucluse. It begins in the morning with the procession and mass, followed by the French lavender-cutting championship and a contest open to amateurs. A farmers’ market, a parade of vintage tractors and a country meal round off the day, at the Défends racecourse. The fields of the Pays de Sault are the last in Provence to bloom: discover the lavender route.

On the first weekend of August, Grasse celebrates jasmine, the flower that made its name as the capital of perfume. The festival has existed since 1946. Its highlight is the Saturday evening flower parade, with its flower battle: firefighters spray the crowd with jasmine-scented water. The perfume-related skills of the Pays de Grasse are inscribed on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list.

Around the same time, at the very start of the month, Digne-les-Bains holds its lavender corso, with decorated floats and parades. All over Provence, the fêtes votives (patron-saint festivals) carry on, often around 15 August and the feast of Saint Roch: abrivados (bulls driven through the streets), courses camarguaises (Camargue bull games), aïoli and a dance on the square.

The major cultural events

The Festival international de piano de La Roque-d’Anthéron, near Aix, runs from mid-July to mid-August. The concerts are held in the open air, in the park of the Château de Florans. Some recitals are also given at the Abbaye de Silvacane.

In Ramatuelle, a stone’s throw from Saint-Tropez, the theatre festival fills the first half of August. It was founded in 1985 by Jacqueline Franjou and Jean-Claude Brialy, in tribute to Gérard Philipe, who is buried in the village. Performances take place in an open-air theatre of around 750 seats.

In Arles, the exhibitions of the Rencontres de la photographie stay open all month. It’s a good outing during the hottest hours, in venues that are often cool.

Nights of the Stars and the summer sky

The Nuits des étoiles, organised by the Association française d’astronomie, take place every year in early August. They are timed to coincide with the Perseids, the meteor shower that peaks around 12 or 13 August. Clubs and observatories then offer stargazing evenings, often free of charge.

For a truly dark sky, head up into the hills behind Nice. The Alpes Azur Mercantour area has been certified as an International Dark Sky Reserve since late 2019: it was the first in south-eastern France. On a moonless night, up to 3,000 stars can be seen there with the naked eye.

Where to go in August to keep cool

The Mercantour National Park is at its best. Hikers climb up to the lakes, such as the Lac d’Allos. Above Tende, the Vallée des Merveilles and its rock engravings can be visited in summer, with guided tours departing from the Refuge des Merveilles.

In the Hautes-Alpes, the Lac de Serre-Ponçon, one of the largest artificial lakes in France, combines beaches, sailing, paddleboarding and swimming. Several of its beaches are lifeguarded in July and August. Walkers can choose from the hiking trails of the Hautes-Alpes.

Closer to the coast, the lakes and rivers of Provence offer a swim in the shade, far from the packed beaches.

Ideas for days out

With the family: a swim in the lake in the morning, a picnic in the shade, then an evening of stargazing. Children love counting shooting stars while lying in the grass.

When the weather is bad: a summer storm passes quickly. Make the most of it to visit a museum, a perfumery in Grasse or an exhibition in Arles.

In the evening: the night markets of the Var and the Alpes-Maritimes, an open-air piano concert or a village festival dance.

For food lovers: August is the season of the Solliès fig, a protected designation of origin (PDO) from the Var. The markets overflow with summer fruit and sun-ripened vegetables.

Good to know

Access to forest areas. In the Bouches-du-Rhône, the prefecture publishes a map for the following day around 6 pm, from green to red; in red, access is forbidden. In the Var, the map is updated before 7 pm and, in red, only the designated public reception areas remain open. Check it before every walk, including in the calanques.

Mountain storms. Set off early and come back down in the early afternoon. Check the mountain weather forecast before any outing at altitude.

Heatwaves. The seasonal watch runs until 15 September. Follow Météo-France’s weather warnings and avoid exertion during the hottest hours.

Crowds. August is holiday month for the whole of France, and the 15 August weekend is especially busy. Book accommodation and activities, and arrive early at popular sites.